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 Cars parked by the train depot in the early 1920's. |
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For a complete index of articles about the History of Homestead Valley, click here.  Famous Residents - December, 2004 Homestead Valley can claim several famous residents. Some were famous when they lived here, for example, Ed Radenzel who reported the news on KQED's Newsroom for several years starting in 1968. Others gained fame later, for example, Jack Kerouac, who lived here in 1956 before "On the Road" was published. There are many others. A sampling of three internationally famous Homestead Valley residents includes an actor/playwright, a musician and a scientist. SAM SHEPARD From 1977 to 1983, Sam Shepard, his actress wife, O-Lan Jones, and their son, Jesse, lived at 33 Evergreen Ave. In 1979, he won a Pulitzer prize for his play, "The Buried Child." In 1983, he was nominated for an Academy Award as best supporting actor for his role as Chuck Yeager in the film, "The Right Stuff." He was later inducted into the American Academy of Arts & Letters. JON HENDRICKS In 1966, Jon Hendricks bought the large house at 328 Ridgewood Ave. and raised a family there. He still owns the house, but lives in New York and spends much of his time on tour throughout the world. He is a singer, song writer and professor of jazz at the University of Toledo. He has performed with many of the great jazz musicians and was part of the famous jazz trio, Lambert, Hendricks and Ross. PETER SHOR In the early 1970s, Will and Jobi Shor and their two children moved to 318 Montford Ave. Their son, Peter, attended Edna Maguire Middle School and graduated from Tamalpais High School in 1977. That summer, he helped the US team win the International Math Olympiad in Yugoslavia, - he won 2nd prize. He then went to Cal. Tech., and on to MIT for a Ph.D. He did post doctoral work at U.C.-Berkeley before joining Bell Laboratories. His research there made him one of the most famous mathematicians in the world. "Shor's Algorithm" is well known in the field of quantum computing. A recent experiment proved its validity. He has won many awards, including a MacArthur Fellowship. Back to index Three Historic Events - November, 2004 FANNIE WORLEY In 1903, attorney Alfred Worley and his wife Fannie settled in Homestead Valley. Alfred had come from England at age 2. Fannie was born in Duncans Mills (Sonoma Co). Their home was on the site of the recently built house at 235 LaVerne Ave. In 1909, they subdivided the 20-acre Worley Tract south of LaVerne Ave. into lots on Ferndale Ave. and the new Melrose Ave. The other part of Melrose Ave. was at that time called Avery Ave. Fannie Worley died in 1920 at age 54 after a long illness. She was the first woman to settle in Homestead and the first woman to die in Homestead. BLANCHE BATES Three Groves attracted famous friends as reported in the Mill Valley Record on December 3, 1927: "Mrs. George Creel, professionally known as Blanche Bates, a national favorite in drama, was recently the guest of Mrs. Lillian Ferguson at Three Groves. Mr. and Mrs. Creel and Mrs. Ferguson have been close friends for many years, having been closely associated in the field of journalism. The charming retreat in Homestead Valley has been the scene of many a feast of soul as well as outdoor luncheons, when the demands of the public would allow the participants to get away to enjoy quiet hours, after the manner of old-fashioned folks." Blanche Bates was a famous Shakespearean actress as well as the star of the "Girl of the Golden West", a 1905 play produced by David Belasco – Puccini turned it into an opera in 1909. FRANK L. MAGUIRE In 1933, Frank L. Maguire, who lived on Linden Lane, wrote the following "Special to the Editor" at the end of an article on the front page of the Mill Valley Record. "This is the biggest thing that ever struck Homestead. What a break for Homestead! I would that I had literary ability to put in words just what this does and will mean to Homestead! Pardon this slight burst of enthusiasm but it is only the consensus of the feelings of all Homestead on the eve of a great achievement!" The lengthy article concerned the announcement by the Homestead Progressive Club that ground would be broken within the next few days for the construction of a new scout hall for Homestead, to be known as Brown's Hall, which was the center of Homestead's community activities from 1934 to 1972. Back to index Homestead Residents Protest - October, 2004 In February, 1920, a group of Homestead citizens met at the residence of Alfred and Fannie Worley on LaVerne Ave. to prepare a statement. The Mill Valley Record published it along with the names of 76 residents who endorsed the statement. It is remarkable that 57% of the total number of households in Homestead at that time were represented. Homestead residents certainly knew how to organize a protest. The statement concluded, "You to whom this appeal is made: Do your duty. Go to the polls Tuesday, Feb. 24, and vote against formation of the Southern Marin Boulevard District." The proposal originated in Willow Camp (Stinson Beach). The objective was to build a boulevard from Bolinas to Manzanita. [An 1892 map shows such a road - it needed upgrading for automobiles -ed.] Only unincorporated areas would be part of the proposed district. Incorporated towns such as Mill Valley and Sausalito would be excluded. Here are a few excerpts from the statement: "Homestead would derive no benefit whatsoever from this boulevard, but if the district is created and the boulevard built, the property owners of Homestead will be called upon to help pay the cost of the construction and maintenance of the same, and it is estimated that the taxes in Homestead will be thereby increased by at least one-third and perhaps one-half above the present rate. "Homestead is urgently in need of better roads. Let Homestead make its own improvements. If other communities desire improvements, let them pay for such improvements themselves, and not ask Homestead to bear part of the cost of the same. To do so is unjust to the people of Homestead. The rate of taxation in Homestead is already very high; in fact, leaving out the incorporated towns, it is the highest in the county. Do not vote to increase your tax rate when you would receive no benefit from the increase. Let our motto be, 'The welfare of Homestead first, last and all the time'." Back to index 1907 Photo of Homestead Valley - September, 2004 Old photos of Homestead Valley are rare. Mary and Tony Brabo have had a masterpiece in their album since 1947 when an early Homestead resident presented it to them.  In the fall of 1907 Harry Wilhelm took a photo of the view from his house on Ridgewood. He aimed the camera at the Alto power station 1.2 miles away on the other side of the marsh, and captured a magnificent view of Homestead Valley showing about a dozen houses, five roads, two railroad lines and even a windmill.In August 1903, the railroad from Sausalito to Mill Valley was electrified. A 150-mile high-voltage transmission line (the longest at that time) connected the hydroelectric power plant at Colgate Dam on the Yuba River to the Alto power station where three-phase 50,000 volt alternating current was stepped down and rectified to 600-volt direct current for access by trains via a third rail. The Alto power station was located at the edge of the marsh below Enchanted Knolls. The buildings were demolished in the 1960's. Mary Brabo, who has lived in Homestead since her birth in 1910, identified several houses in the photo, For example, in the foreground at the corner of LaVerne and Melrose is the Worley house, long since demolished. The adjacent 25-acre Worley Tract was subdivided in 1909. Several houses in the photo still exist: 1. The Dowdell house on the corner of Lillian Lane and Montford. Built in 1905, the house later belonged to Charles Mott and his wife, Lillian Dowdell, for whom Lillian Lane is named. 2. The Heckman house on the corner of Linden Lane and Ethel, built by Herman Heckman in 1904 on the site of The Homestead. 3. The large house on the corner of Linden Lane and Evergreen. 4. The Robertson house on Robertson Terrace and their barn on Molino. 5. Twin summer cabins on Evergreen, later connected to make a house. Visible roads are Avery (now Melrose), Ferndale, LaVerne, Evergreen and Scott. The landscape is for the most part devoid of trees, except along Reed Creek which is lined with mature trees. Back to index Mystery Solved - August, 2004 In the 1920s, Léon Georges Theuriet and his wife Suzanne lived in a large house on 2.21 acres between Ferndale and Ridgewood. He had a jewelry manufacturing operation in the adjacent small house on the property. Léon Theuriet died of diabetes in Ross General Hospital on November 24, 1930. He was only 46 years old. His obituary in the Mill Valley Record mentions several prominent citizens: his doctor was George Landrock of Mill Valley; funeral services in San Francisco were managed by the Rotary Club of Mill Valley, Walter Robinson, president; pallbearers were: Alex McCurdy (a neighbor and police chief), Chas. McCrum (a policeman), Will Falley (City Clerk), H.P. Bennett (printer of a local newspaper), James Russell (retail merchant of automobiles) and Donald Burbeck (postmaster). His body was removed to Mt. Olivet cemetery in Colma for cremation. Léon Theuriet has 35 descendants living in the United States. Carol Theuriet, wife of his grandson, has researched the Theuriet genealogy extensively. She has been unable to locate Léon Theuriet's remains. This mystery has perplexed the family for many years. In 1972, John and Liz Bolton bought a house on No. Ferndale built in 1952 on a lot that had been part of the Theuriet property. In 1981, Ed Sexton, a local contractor, was digging a hole for a hot tub in their backyard. His pick struck something metal. Upon investigation he determined it was an urn containing ashes. On its brass cover were the words, "At Rest." Ed was quite perturbed by this disquieting experience. He showed the urn to Liz, and they wondered what to do. When John came home from work the three of them had a long discussion. They decided to bury the urn a few feet deeper than where it had been, and to install the hot tub as planned. Since then, the Boltons have joked about being "At Rest" when they were in the hot tub. In 2003, Carol Theuriet learned of the Bolton's discovery. She checked the records at Mt. Olivet Cemetery and determined that Léon was indeed cremated there and that his ashes had been given to his wife Suzanne. It seems likely that the urn was buried in the Theuriet's back yard. Theuriet descendants were pleased to learn that for 73 years Léon's ashes have been "At Rest" under a hot tub in Homestead Valley. Back to index Theuriet House - July, 2004 Map No. 7 of the Tamalpais Land & Water Co. (1903) shows a 2.21-acre parcel (lot 18) between the junction of Ferndale Avenue and Ridgewood Avenue and the connecting lane to the north. Today there are 9 houses on the parcel. The largest house is at 328 Ridgewood Ave. A photo probably taken in 1904 shows that lot 18 was fenced with bushes planted along the fence. Otherwise it was a barren hillside. Steps go up the hill from a gate on Ferndale to a small house close to Ridgewood. To the right is water tower on the northwest corner of the property. In the background is the Dias ranch house further up Ridgewood. A photo taken between 1905 and 1907 shows that the small house had been moved to a site in front of the water tower, and rotated 90 degrees.  In its place is a large three story house. In the background is Mt. Tamalpais. The Tavern of Tamalpais at the end of the "Crookedest Railroad in the World" can be seen next to East Peak. A photo taken inside the house shows a wood paneled living room and a staircase to the second story - much as it looks today except that two windows are now doorways to additions on the house.Neighbors have referred to the large house as the "Shreve Mansion." The story is that it was built in 1904 as a summer home for the Shreve family, but after the 1906 earthquake, Shreve & Co. manufactured jewelry in the small house next door. Census data and other records show that Léon Theuriet and his second wife, Suzanne, lived there in the 1920s. Léon was a world renowned French diamond cutter. After immigrating in 1910, he first worked for Arthur Hermès in New York and later for Shreve & Co. in San Francisco. By 1920, he owned his own jewelry manufacturing business which was located in the Phelan building. In 1917, he moved to Homestead. The small house later became Léon's atelier where he and his employees made jewelry for sale to retailers such as Shreve & Co. While lacking historical accuracy, the neighbors' story about the "Shreve Mansion" has some elements of truth. Back to index Old Houses - June, 2004 Property tax roll records list 91 houses in Homestead that were constructed prior to 1920. It is also evident that many pre-1920 houses have been demolished. Therefore, it seems reasonable to conclude that more than 100 houses must have existed in 1920. However, in January 1920, the census taker found only 75 houses in Homestead. Why so few? Because in January 1920 nobody was home at the summer homes of which there were a large number. In Tamalpais Canyon alone, 19 homes that exist today were summer homes in 1920. To see what pre-1920 houses look like today, follow this self-guided tour.  Construction years in parentheses represent the year in which the house was placed on the tax rolls - the house could have been constructed one or two years earlier.Start at the 2AM Club. Walk up the left side of Montford to see #23 (1906) and #25 (1909). Turn left on Ethel and on the left side, look at #541 (1920), #543 (1903), #547 (1915), and the house on the corner at #34 Evergreen (1910). Turn left to see #31 Evergreen (1909). Return to Ethel and turn left to see on the left side #547 (1906), and #599 on the corner of Reed (1907). Go back up Ethel to Evergreen. On the corner is #102 Evergreen (1913). This and the houses on the left side of Ethel, #550 (1900), #544 (1908), #540 (1917), and #530 (1905), are all in the Heckman Tract. The Heckman Tract is bounded by Evergreen, Linden Lane, Montford and Ethel. It was the site of the original Homestead which burned down in 1900. Herman Heckman bought the property in 1904 and built a 13-room house at #530 Ethel. His daughter Pearl was 18 at the time. Decades later in her oral history, she recalled that the barn with its distinctive cupola was the only building on the site. The house at #550 Ethel is likely that barn. The cupola is gone, but one part of the house looks as if it could have been a barn - note the lack of gables which all neighboring houses have. Other houses in Homestead are known to have originated as barns. Back to index Annexation to Mill Valley - May, 2004 Throughout its history, Homestead Valley has periodically rejected Mill Valley's annexation proposals. The first such proposal occurred at a 1908 meeting of the Mill Valley Improvement Club - Homestead residents that were invited to the meeting rejected the idea. The following editorial in the Jan. 17, 1920 issue of the Mill Valley Record tried sweet talk: WHAT IS THE MATTER WITH HOMESTEAD? Nothing is the matter with Homestead. She's all right. Homestead Valley is one of the most marvelously beautiful spots in all this world, as is said over and over again. Homestead also possesses some of the most worthy and delightful of people among its residents. This unorganized little hamlet is suffering for want of organization. It is normally a part of Mill Valley, and it were well for its interests to be identified with those of Mill Valley. In other words, a number of unpleasant problems would be disposed of if Homestead were to incorporate with Mill Valley. Just now this member of the community seems to be a bone of contention, but it would not be if it were to enter the door that is open to it. The school districts are already identical; why should not this territory be identical in all its interests with those of the Mill Valley incorporation? There is mail delivery twice a day waiting as an inducement, and other things beside, and also escape from a number of annoyances. We say to Homestead, "Try it." You could not lose out. Homestead rejected subsequent annexation proposals in 1925, 1946, 1950 and 1966. But in 1951, Mill Valley annexed Homestead's commercial strip on Miller from Montford to Reed. The objective was sales tax revenue. The 23 commercial lots and 3 residential lots met all the requirements of the "Annexation of Uninhabited Territory Act of 1939." See the June 2002 history article. By a quirk of fate, Homestead annexed part of Mill Valley. In 1988, the Homestead Valley Land Trust acquired ownership of 50 streets and 30 lanes in Mill Valley. See the March 2001 history article. Back to index Homestead Terrace Redux - April, 2004 The January 2001 history article about Homestead Terrace quoted a March 1966 Homestead Headlines article written by W.G. which challenged those objecting to the county's plans for "subsidized old-folks housing." Incidentally, W.G. was Willa Gritter who in 1988 as Willa Kenoyer (her maiden name) was the Socialist Party's candidate for president of the United States. She received 3882 votes. Homestead Terrace is Federal Public Housing, Elderly/Disabled. Residents are generally at least 62 years old with a very low annual income. The complex on Linden Lane between Montford and Evergreen consists of 5 buildings with 27 studio apartments, each 374 sq. feet, plus a community building. Construction was completed in February 1969. It received the 1970 HUD Honor Award for Design Excellence and the 1974 Bay Area AIA Design Excellence Honor Award. Architect/Landscape Architect are Campbell & Wong/Royston, Hanamoto, Beck & Abey. Both Bob Royston and Eldon Beck live in Homestead Valley. Project plans were announced in June 1966. Neighborhood reaction was immediate: density was too high and increased traffic would be a hazard to the elderly. There was even talk of Mill Valley annexing the flat portion of Homestead Valley to kill the county project. City council and planning commission members toured the site one Sunday. In June, 1966, the Marin Housing Authority asked the County Zoning Administrator for a use permit for a 30-unit senior citizen home. It was granted, but only for 20 apartments. On appeal, this decision was upheld by the Planning Commission in August. In September, 1966, the 17 board members of the Homestead Valley Improvement Club (HVIC) voted unanimously to support the 30-unit project. President Bernie Weinstein said, "We feel that the small group of loud opponents in no way represents the true feelings of the valley with regard to this project." A week later, the Marin County Board of Supervisors approved a 28-unit project. The dedication ceremony was on April 24, 1969. By 1970, neighbors who had been opposed said it was "very nicely done" and an "asset to the community." Back to index Gardening in 1906 or The Good Earth - March, 2004 In 1906, Alexander Eells, a successful San Francisco lawyer, began weekend gardening on his 8-acre property, situated between LaVerne and Montford on both sides of Reed Creek below Three Groves. In January, he had the willow swamp at the east end of the property cleared of brush roots, and all the flat land plowed and harrowed. The soil consisted of decayed vegetable matter and black gravelly loam. In February, he ordered five varieties of pecan trees from DeWitt, Georgia, and brought back Matilija poppy roots, olive cuttings, fig cuttings and grape roots given to him while he was on a business trip in Santa Barbara. In March he set out grape, gooseberry, currant, raspberry and loganberry vines, plus pecan, chestnut, lemon, walnut, plum, pistachio, apple, pear, cherry, peach, apricot, nectarine and almond trees. He also planted a few early potatoes and Jerusalem artichokes. On April 8, Fostini, who worked part time on the farm, planted an acre of potatoes. On April 21, three days after the earthquake, Eels, his wife and their two daughters moved to the farm from their damaged home on Haight St. In May, they were eating lettuce, peas and various greens from the garden. July brought more peas, beans, carrots, spinach, beets and lettuce than they could possibly eat. In early August, Fostini dug about half of the potatoes he had planted in April, yielding 20 sacks. Eells was given one fourth of the crop. In late August, the sweet corn was ripe. In September, tomatoes, peppers, brussels sprouts and artichokes were ready. In early October, they ate the last batch of corn, but there were still plenty of tomatoes. They had used almost no hay during the summer because fodder corn, mangel wurzel beets, white carrots, cabbage and pumpkins had sufficed for the milk cow. Between 1937 and 1942, Eells' son-in-law, Dr. Edward G. Vandevere, became famous for raising 200 varieties of rhododendron on the property. He won international prizes for new types. Back to index The Home Front - 1942 - February, 2004 Five days after Pearl Harbor, Mill Valley had its first blackout. The fourth one came on January 26, 1942 at 6:53 PM - the army had announced the presence of unidentified aircraft 80 miles off the coast. The all clear was sounded at 7:40 PM. Blackout violators were fined $25. A few days later, Homestead's air raid siren was installed on top of Homestead School. Air raid warden John Cooper stated that private donations paid for the $250 siren. The Homestead and Alto sirens were connected to the Mill Valley system which included nearly sabotage-proof methods of control from the firehouse and two other undisclosed points. In March, Louis Wassermann presided over a community meeting at Homestead School where John Cooper and Judd Vandevere presented plans for a sector post for fire wardens, air raid wardens and first aid workers. Ove Johnson's offer of his cottage at LaVerne and Melrose was accepted. Volunteers had already painted it, inside and out. Expenses for gas and electricity would be met by Marin County civilian defense. Johnson would pay the water bill. Mrs. T. Duncan donated a circulating gas heater. Additional donations of furnishings were requested. A volunteer would sleep at the sector post to answer the telephone. Volunteers were requested to sign up with Cooper at Homestead Grocery. The sector post was opened on April 15 with J. B. Robertson on duty. Volunteers arrived at 7:30 PM and could leave any time in the morning, by reporting their time of leaving in advance to Chief Air Raid Warden Dick Finn. At all other times during the 24 hours, John Cooper was responsible for warning residents. On Sunday, April 17, Mill Valley's 36 Japanese residents (8 families) left on the 6:15 AM bus for Santa Rosa. Harry Okubara and his family had lived in Homestead Valley since 1909. They and other Japanese from Marin, Sonoma and Napa counties went by train to the Merced assembly center. Two women leased the Okubara poultry ranch on Montford for the duration. In May, Marin was allocated 47,124 gas masks. In June, 100 members of the Homestead civilian defense group tried them out - groups of 8 entered a room filled with tear gas. Back to index Opposition to Sewer in 1927 - January, 2004 In 1924, residents met in Homestead School to discuss sanitation. A sanitary committee was formed to investigate and report the means necessary to correct the existing unsanitary conditions. Both the State Board of Health and the County Board made surveys and found serious health menaces. They concluded that installation of proper sewers was the only correct solution. Homestead residents signed a petition which was accepted by the County Board of Supervisors. It found that the "Acquisition Act of 1925" offered the best solution. This meant that Homestead should join up with Mill Valley which had voted for additional sewers and an extended outlet. The next three years were taken up with engineering studies, cost estimates and lots of discussions with Mill Valley. In May 1927, Homestead resident Mrs. Agnes Phillips wrote an article in the Mill Valley Record entitled, "Homestead Sewer Progresses - Opposition is Breaking Down." It said in part, "Although some of the property owners still oppose this most necessary improvement, the majority of residents will be found on the side of those desiring a better type of sanitation than exists at present in their so beautiful valley." In May, a Mill Valley resident H. C. Henderson sent a letter to the taxpayers of Homestead Valley which said in part, "While not a taxpayer of Homestead, I am greatly interested in the legality of a law that gives Mill Valley the right to force an expensive sewer system on the property owners of Homestead, be it a necessity or not." In June, Mrs. Phillips refuted Henderson's arguments in a letter to the editor. She advised Mr. Henderson to study conditions for himself. "Walk down Evergreen Avenue. Take the middle of the road. Study the diphtheria quarantine signs on one side, the vacant houses and overflowing septic tanks on the other. Look at the creek with its filthy water, where children play." In August, a citizen's committee, naming itself the Homestead Valley Improvement Association, presented a petition to the Mill Valley City Council requesting that proceedings for the sewer be abandoned. This petition bore the names of two thirds of the property owners. Abandonment passed unanimously. [Homestead waited until 1948 for sewers - ed.] Back to index The History of Sunnyside Tract The History of Early Mill Valley The History of Homestead Valley, 2010 Articles The History of Homestead Valley, 2009 Articles The History of Homestead Valley, 2008 Articles The History of Homestead Valley, 2007 Articles The History of Homestead Valley, 2006 Articles The History of Homestead Valley, 2005 Articles The History of Homestead Valley, 2003 Articles The History of Homestead Valley, 2002 Articles The History of Homestead Valley, 2000-2001 Articles |